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Showing posts with label soldering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label soldering. Show all posts

Thursday, 18 October 2018

A "sometimes I amaze myself" soldering repair

I have two TP-LINK powerline extenders (TL-WPA4220) which allow me to have WiFi in the far reaches of my empire. Well in my big barn, at least, one for each end as its 50m long with walls of 0.75m granite. Anyway, voila:


So far so good until a recent flood (about knee deep) and one was fitted low down and got drenched. It was unpowered at the time, so with a little patience and perhaps a hair drier - in theory, at least - all should have been well, because they ain't cheap! The problem with that last statement was the wod "patience" - I have little and thought it was dried out when it obviously wasn't....

Buzz click pop, bad smell and I let the blue smoke out. Because I'm in remote rural France I have to get everything online and delivery is - er, well - "Gallic" let's say. So as well as the cost, it's the inconvenience, and so I thought I'd open 'er up and see if it was maybe just a fuse ha ha. This is what a good one looks like inside - there is a LOT of stuff in there, but pay attention to the expanded section, becuase that's where the problem lay.



That problem was fairly obvious: in between the big 4.7uF cap on the left and the pale green vertical inductor on the right - and under the tough white rubbery goo keeping some of the high voltage parts safe - something (who knows what?) had gone "pop" in a fairly big way. When I say "fairly big", I mean a) so that it wasn't actually there anymore b) it has taken out the green solder mask underneath and with it, a fair part of the copper track linking it ot the 4.7uF cap. c) the smoked remains of whatever it had been were all over the cap and inductor and inside the case. Even the rubbery goo was blackened. The inductor and cap were so blackened that I didn't know at first what had popped. It was only when I removed them to see if they were still viable that I spotted the disaster zone*. Ironically, both were fine and fully "in spec" and cleaned up fine.

*Spotted the disater zone only after I had taken a scalpel to the white rubber goo to cut away enough to see "what lies beneath". Answer: an empty pad marked "FB1" and the aformentioned bare board and missing copper. All in all, not good, but I hate being beaten. I mean I didn't even know what an FB might be, but I knew I didn't have one "in stock". Turns out its a ferrite bead and it looked as if it was probably an 0603 size...

I'm okay with 0805s but 0603s strike fear into my heart. I had had some recent success with SOD-323 diodes on some blown Wemos D1s and they aren't much diffferent from an 0603, so...


I trawled ebay to try to find some 0603 ferrite beads...and then I thought "Maybe some of my old "junk" boards might have something...long story short - whole house search until I removed a modem card (!) from an ancient PC. It held not just the one bead I'd need but four - which was good news as anyone who has ever dropped / pinged / burned / lost anything that small. So - with the obligatory cocktail stick tip as reference - we have the blank spaces where the FBs used to be and my calipers showing each to be 2.3x1.3mm - actualy slightly(!) larger than the SOD-323, but this has to go into a space I can only just get into!



First, I cleaned off all the soot residue, removed some "erupted" copper trace, flattened the remainder, polished and fluxed and tinned it...I was only going to get one go at this...

Taking a clear photo of the result is pretty much impossible without an industrial microscope, as the scale is so minute, but my best offering follows. Think back to the "good" shot above, remind yourself of this size of this thing and where it has to go back into:
...and it's a marvel I managed at all! So even though it's a terrible shot, it allows us to see several things:



First, you can see some soot still on the white rubber goo and where I had to scalpel it out...Secondly (despite vigorous scrubbing with isopropyl alcohol) the white FB1 legend is still burn-stained. Third, how close I had to get to the 4.7uF cap with my (huge) track repair...

As I look back at this and the good "before" shot, I relaise the original was probably an 0402 size. I'm glad I never saw it - I'd never have dared. Also using the bigger(!) 0603 helps bridge the gap in the blown-out copper track...

No-one, dear reader, was more surprised than moi to find an instant power on, lights cycle, reconnect to the "other end" of the power line adapter and my SSID being broadcast strongly...all as I stood by with fire extinguisher at the ready...



Thursday, 2 November 2017

"A bit cheeky..." 2

The SMD soldering went..er...let's say it just went. I don't usually enjoy it, but the results didn't look too shabby. After a quick "smoke test" with the meter, I checked for continuity where expected, and not where it was not. All good.

Then - just to show how paranoid (read "safety conscious") I am with mains electricity - I built this little rig so I don't have to go anywhere near it while its under test and can be done fully hands-off. So much so, that the mains plug is into one of my WiFi truc devices and switch remotely from the bench! "The management eats here".

The PCB is a 1" square type that I came across on ebay some while ago - they are absolutely indispensable for knocking together little bits like this: buy them here. The came as 24pcs for eu6.62 or a measly 28c each - my kind of component. I always keep plenty in stock.

Anyway, once the power went on:


I would have hoped for a little closer to 3.3v but a) its all cheap parts b) its a cheap meter c) I'm sure it will be fine d) I'm over the moon it worked at all!

Find out if I'm right when I start the first "production" build of my ESP-01S powered wall switches which this PSU is for!







A bit cheeky...

I recently bought some of these AC-DC converters from ITEAD to run my truc devices from the mains. Mainly they are Wemos D1s but I also decided to build smart wall switches using ESP-01S as they are very small - but they run on 3.3v.


Click here to buy them yourself

"No problem...", I thought - "...looks like they do 3.3v too - bonus!". If you follow the link above to buy one, you'll see that ITEAD's latest photo has no 3.3v pin any more and on closer inspection of my own units, I can see why:


Seems that they are economising the few extra cents per unit of a 3.3v LDO...To be fair to them, the unit is clearly advertised as 5v and that's what I bought it for, but I couldn't help thinking "a ha'porth of tar..."

I also couldn't help thinking that if I could buy a few cheap LDOs in SOT-89 format with the right pinout, then I could right this "wrong". Don't misunderstand me, I'm very happy with ITEAD products and I have bought a lot of them - I trust them and I highly recommend this one, but...you know what I mean?

Anyways, it took a little research to find the right part, and as usual (I get the majority of my components from ebay.com) I found a seller doing five AP1117Y33L (here) They are incorrectly tagged as "Diodes" - but that's half the fun of ebay isn't it? Either way, they are what I needed.

There's a whacking great cap on the input side (470uF) but - as you can see - none on the output side. The datasheet for the AP1117Y33L states it needs a 22uF cap on the output for stability. So as long as I hook one up there on the final board, I should be "quids in".

Now all I have to do is a) bemoan my failing eyesight and b) get the fine tip on my soldering iron and "bite the bullet". If you aren't a big fan of soldering SMD parts ("fiddly" ain't the word), look away now...

I shall report back in due course.