Practical help with getting the best of the ESP8266. Programming firmware, interfacing sensors, using hardware e.g. Sonoff, Wemos D1, NodeMCU etc
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Showing posts with label ITEAD. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ITEAD. Show all posts
Sunday, 9 February 2020
H4Plugins finally released!
And finally...112 files of IOT goodness for ESP8266, ESP32 and (excepting WIFi) STM32-NUCLEO. It was designed to make it easy for you to write custom IOT apps running multiple simultaneous functions. It is currently running my own home. Go get it now - I hope you find it useful. https://github.com/philbowles/h4plugins
Thursday, 2 November 2017
A bit cheeky...
I recently bought some of these AC-DC converters from ITEAD to run my truc devices from the mains. Mainly they are Wemos D1s but I also decided to build smart wall switches using ESP-01S as they are very small - but they run on 3.3v.
Click here to buy them yourself
"No problem...", I thought - "...looks like they do 3.3v too - bonus!". If you follow the link above to buy one, you'll see that ITEAD's latest photo has no 3.3v pin any more and on closer inspection of my own units, I can see why:
Seems that they are economising the few extra cents per unit of a 3.3v LDO...To be fair to them, the unit is clearly advertised as 5v and that's what I bought it for, but I couldn't help thinking "a ha'porth of tar..."
I also couldn't help thinking that if I could buy a few cheap LDOs in SOT-89 format with the right pinout, then I could right this "wrong". Don't misunderstand me, I'm very happy with ITEAD products and I have bought a lot of them - I trust them and I highly recommend this one, but...you know what I mean?
Anyways, it took a little research to find the right part, and as usual (I get the majority of my components from ebay.com) I found a seller doing five AP1117Y33L (here) They are incorrectly tagged as "Diodes" - but that's half the fun of ebay isn't it? Either way, they are what I needed.
There's a whacking great cap on the input side (470uF) but - as you can see - none on the output side. The datasheet for the AP1117Y33L states it needs a 22uF cap on the output for stability. So as long as I hook one up there on the final board, I should be "quids in".
Now all I have to do is a) bemoan my failing eyesight and b) get the fine tip on my soldering iron and "bite the bullet". If you aren't a big fan of soldering SMD parts ("fiddly" ain't the word), look away now...
I shall report back in due course.
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